la cité de l'ocean et du surf

whatever happens, happens

"Fear is what keeps us alive. Of course, big waves are scary, but it’s extremely exciting to push yourself in bigger conditions and challenge yourself mentally. In my head, I'm saying, 'Push yourself, be committed, and whatever happens, happens.' The biggest lesson in surfing when you wipe out is to relax — you can't fight the ocean, it's too powerful. So, you just have to go with the flow and enjoy the washing machine ride."
Stephanie Gilmore, world surfing champion

EDITORIAL FIASCO Magazine #16 "Extreme Point Break" by Lope Navo

petite philosophie du surf

after having seen this:
Philosophie - Surfen - videos.arte.tv

i feel affirmed; surfing is philosophy.

neverimmer

photos i've taken in hendaye this summer

my next must-read-book:

i'll meet you there

neverimmer

'the horizon is always an impossible place of destination. It is the point where the discernible becomes indiscernible, where one can disappear. It is at an unreachable distance because it is always away from where you are, yet still in the realm of the visible. It is always where you can never be, yet you can always see it. Like a photograph or film, it is only tangible with the eyes.'

[David Horvitz / 'I'll meet you here']

the endless summer

i gladly tell you that i realized one of my lifedreams:

i surfed the very first time in my life and that on my 20th birthday

(: